Innovate Wideband MTX- L | e. Bay. Brand New! Authentic! Always in- stock! Ships quickly! $1. Buy It Nowor Best Offer. Free Shipping. MTX- L PLUS: Digital Wideband Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge Kit (8 Ft.) - Includes: Gauge, Silver Bezel, Black Bezel, White Faceplate, Black Faceplate, LSU 4. Wideband O2 Sensor, 3 Ft. Sensor Cable (Overall le.. Innovate Motorsports LC- 1 Install supplementafter you have the Power 1. V+ and calibration wire run to the driver side footwell remove the lower dash panel by removing the two sheet metal screws located in the lower left and right corners of the panel. The lower right screw you will need to get under the panel and look up to see it. Innovate Lc 1 Install Manual Boost Controller
![]() Innovate Lc 1 ProblemsIts just behind (towards the rear of the vehicle) the white drivers footwell air vent. The lower left screw is located right above the hood latch release lever. Also, there is a plastic anchor screw that you can access by opening the drivers door and turning the plastic phillips type screw 9. Now the lower part of the lower dash panel will swing back away from the firewall and the top of the lower dash panel is secured with three (3) push/pull clips. Pull straight back on the upper edge of the lower dash panel and they will release. There are two (2) on the left side of the steering column and one (1) on the right side of the steering column. Once the fasteners and clips are all removed/released, unplug any accessory wire harness' from your accessory switch cluster (I only had foglights to unplug). Also, remove the OBD- II port from the lower center of the lower dash panel by locating the small release tabs and prying them inward with a small flat blade pocket screwdriver. Get the lower dash panel out of your way for now. Now, find the switched ignition power source that you want to tap into. I used a heavy gauge wire on the back of the fuse block. Verify voltage to the wire you decide to use by checking it for 1. Innovate MTX-L wideband Question. Never mind I found the manual online at it of course answered my. A Innovate MTX-L is classified as the LC-1. Innovate Motorsports Wideband Digital MTX-L All-In-One w/ O2 Sensor. (No LC-1 required). Install took about as long as to be expected for a wideband gauge. ![]() ON” (Ignition On) position and no voltage when the key is in and turned to the “Acc” (accessory) position with a 1. V circuit light or voltmeter/multimeter. To isolate the LC- 1 from cranking voltage fluctuations be sure you dont use a power source that is 1. V+ hot on the Accessory bus. Fellow NASIOC member 'Williaty' pointed out an important detail that I overlooked. That is to be sure to verify that the power source you choose maintains 1. Or, if i shuts off when cranking, as some circuits do, to protect them from these voltage changes, keep looking. LC- 1 controller circuitry. If you use my method, a small pocket screwdriver can be used to pry the locking tab away from the spade connector on the chosen wire by sticking it through the front of the fuse block harness plug just below the spade that you want to tap into, and this will allow the spade connector to be pulled out of the fuse block connector through the back. You can then solder your fuse block wire lead (or other circuit protection device, 5 amp minimum) to the spade connector, being careful not to solder into the connecting surface for the fuse that plugs into that location. Be sure to shring wrap this, and all other solder joints, its common sense and good practice. I included pics with part #'s for the fuse block and fuses, in case anyone needs them. Next, decide where you want to mount the calibration switch and LC- 1 LED status indicator. I mounted mine on the lower drivers side dash panel, just in front of the ignition switch. I chose this location because it is convenient to use (even though you dont use it too often), and more importantly its somewhere that it will get my attention if it displays a trouble code sequence and during calibration procedures. Also, this location keeps it out of view of other drivers and people outside the vehicle for the most part. After a few months of having the LC- 1 LEd status indicating light in the described position, I would not reccomend that someone else use this position. It works fine at night and would get my attention in a dark interior but during the day I dont think I would notice it very soon if at all. I would recommend locating the LED status indicating light somewhere in front of the drivers field of vision, and I plan to relocate mine to the instrument gauge cluster bezel around the stock gauge cluster just above where the steering wheel assembly goes below the dash. The LC- 1 calibration switch works perfect there, though. Keeping my vehicle looking stock is important to me. But the calibration switch and LC- 1 LED status indicator can be mounted anywhere, obviously. The calibration switch will require a 1/4” hole to be mounted into. The LED status indicator light will require a 3/1. The switch has a plastic knurled ring that threads onto the switch neck to tighten it onto a mounting surface, while the LED status indicator light is a press fit, so take care to drill the hole straight and round so the LED will press in nice and tight. At this time, I ran two ground wires through the loom under the center console from earlier. These wires are not supplied in the LC- 1 kit and you will need to provide these yourself if you use my installation method. Make them long enough to go from the calibration switch/LC- 1 LED status light through the loom and out to the engine where you will be grounding the LC- 1 system and LC- 1 heater circuit wires (blue, white wires)To wire the calibration switch, connect the calibration wire (black) to either wire on the calibration switch via a solder joint and shrink wrap. The other will connect to a ground wire you just ran through the loom., again with a solder joint/shrink wrap. For the switch, either wire can connect to either the calibration wire from the LC- 1 harness (black) or the ground wire you just ran through the loom. Its not important which one goes to the ground or calibration wire (black). And yes, connect them with a solder joint/shrink wrap. For the LC- 1 LED status indicator, the wires need to be connected properly. They are polarity sensitive. For LED's the wire colors are not always the deciding factor, the wire lengths are more important. The shorter of the two is typically the Cathode, and should be connected to the other ground wire you just ran through the loom. If both wires are the same length, go by color, assuming black is the Cathode, and connect it to ground. The Anode, typically longer, or red wire if both the same length, will connect to the calibration wire from the LC- 1 harness (black).*reference the Innovate Motorsports LC- 1 install/users manual for a wiring schematic of the calibration button/LC- 1 LED status indicator*After you have your calibration switch and LC- 1 LED status indicator mounted and wired, tie up your wires neatly out of harms way. Re install your drivers side lower dash panel, making sure to re attach your accessory switch cluster plugs and OBD- II port. You are now done on the drivers side inside the vehicle. The end is near. In the passenger side footwell, run your two ground wires that you provided yourself out through the firewall via the same main wiring harness grommet/boot location that you ran the LC- 1 harness and serial data wires in through. At this time, run the LC- 1 heater circuit and LC- 1 system ground wires out the same way. A trick I used, pictured here, is to prepare a long, heavy tie warp by notching slits in it at the end to allow somewhere to snag the wire that need to come back through the firewall. It's impossible to get your hand up around the heater core assembly and be able to manipulate wire back through the firewall via the main wire harness grommet/boot hole. To do this, take you prepared tie wrap and slide it through the main wiring harness grommet/boot hole from the engine side into the cabin. Find the end and attach your wires like described above. Pull back out from the engine side and the wires should follow. It worked perfect both times for me.*If you plan to use a gauge besides the XD- 1. LC- 1 system ground wire (white), or attach and run a separate ground wire for the gauge wiring harness but be sure its grounded on the same lug as the LC- 1 system ground wire (white) when grounding to the engine**If you are going to connect a gauge, plan wiring connections appropriately to avoid backtracking and rewiring. Refer to manufacturer installation/wiring direction/diagrams for said gauge*.
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